Seven weeks into our Thailand travels, it feels as if we’ve seen so much already. Among the highlights: The vacation like visit to the beautiful beach town of Ao Nang. Four weeks staying in the fun Nimman neighborhood of Chiang Mai, full of restaurants, shopping and coffee. A funky train ride to Lampang for a weekend on the river. A scooter getaway to the gorgeous country side town of Chiang Dao, where you can see all the stars at night, it seems.
In Chiang Mai, we have an ever growing list of our favorite activities. Although there’s always something new, we found our favorite coffee spot on the corner, where they already know our order when we walk through the door. Iced latte with oat milk is our favorite. Our favorite pizza spot “By Hand” is the best pizza we’ve ever had, made in a wood-fired oven outside and right in front of you. Mom told us about “La Casita”, omg we’ve found some of the best Mexican food anywhere, right here in Thailand. Foot massages in the “temple”, which is really just a covered, open air area with a smiling staff and comfortable temperature moderated by slow pivoting fans. An hour will run you about $5 USD, what a pleasure. We’ve fallen asleep here more than once. Of course, the 7-11’s found everywhere provide us water, cold drinks, snacks and the place where we break large bills into smaller ones. Live music is free at the North Gate Jazz Coop. The temples and ancient Buddhist architecture are amazing and everywhere.
A Grab ride (Asia’s version of Uber or Lyft) gets you across town for a dollar or two. Fortunately, we also have the option of transportation by scooter, as Mom just bought a new one and loaned us her old one, which still runs great. Food delivery is an easy option via the Grab app, with a veritable army of guys in green jackets and helmets that will bring you just about anything and quickly too. No, that’s not expensive either.
The shopping center of One Nimman (just a short walk away), has this incredible outdoor area, which seems to transform itself each time we arrive. One day it’s a clothing market, the next a wine festival. Perhaps a live band, and then a DJ. There’s always food (see earlier post re Gone To Food Heaven). We can also walk to the Maya shopping center. It’s essentially a beautiful 6 level mall, squeaky clean, air conditioned and with anything you want. Food options galore, a movie theater with English titles in reclining seats for approx. $6 or so. Chairs that will massage you for less than a buck, or the normal massage places run by people. Up to you…. We’re not really mall people and typically avoid shopping centers like this back in the states, but here, it feels totally fun, safe and a joyful experience again.
Being a US American, it’s a bit hard to process the vibe shift you feel in Thailand. Our friend Jim said it well, having lived there for more than a decade. Thailand is the first place he ever felt that two strangers can look into each others eyes for more than a second or two, without the feeling of discomfort or risk of hostility we have in the U.S. If you happen to find yourself watching someone interesting, what you’ll get back, almost inevitably is an easy smile and bow of the head. A sort of kind acknowledgement of our shared humanity. It feels really good to live this way.
The Thais are culturally different than we are and in some wonderful ways. Thailand is called “The Land of Smiles” for a reason. The people really do smile easily. They place their hands in the “Y” position, with hands over heart, pressed together, and bow with kindness and respect. They’re unbelievably calm and not quick to anger. Showing anger in public is deeply frowned upon in this culture. I’m sure they have the same human emotions we all do, but you almost never see it. Even coming across a Thai who is grouchy is so rare, that it feels like a novelty to see one. “Hey, grouchy Thai”, we laugh to ourselves from a polite distance.
We’ll stop beating around the bush here. We feel that they are simply nicer than we are. We feel safer here than we do at home. As US Americans, we’re far too often presenting ourselves with a rushed and stressed out attitude, and quick to hostility. Returning home to the USA after a trip in Thailand is almost jarring, going from a land of gentle and smiling people, and re entering a land of stress and anger simmering just beneath the surface. We ask “What do you do?”. The Thai’s ask, “Have you eaten yet today?”.
We’re sure the Thai people aren’t perfect and who knows what all is happening outside of our limited view. But our experience here after visiting many times, is that they are simply the most kind and gentle people we’ve ever met. We’re already planning our return here.
We wonder what our next adventure will bring, as it’s in a country we have dreamed of for years, but have never seen.
Next Stop- Hanoi, Vietnam
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